Mod Kaew

Mod Kaew moved from its original Phloen Chit hole-in-the-wall to a bigger space on Sathorn Soi 12 and kept everything that made it work. Red neon on the ceiling, a Picasso portrait watching over the room, wine bottles lining every wall. There is no printed list. You walk to the shelf, pick what catches your eye, or ask the team, who can talk you through anything from orange wine to obscure Spanish field blends. The terrace out back is great for early evening drinks, and the kitchen runs proper food alongside the bottles. It still feels like drinking at a friend's place.